Create the adaptor for the sound board: Tech Note: Here are the pinouts for a 2532 and 2732. We want to build something that will let us plug the 2732 into the sound board's existing 2532 socket. __ __ __ __ A7| U |+5V A7| U |+5V A6| |A8 A6| |A8 A5| |A9 A5| |A9 A4| |A11 A4| |+5V A3| 2 |!CS A3| 2 |!CS A2| 7 |A10 A2| 5 |A10 A1| 3 |!CE A1| 3 |A11 A0| 2 |D7 A0| 2 |D7 D0| |D6 D0| |D6 D1| |D5 D1| |D5 D2| |D4 D2| |D4 GND|_____|D3 GND|_____|D3 Note the similarities between these pinouts. All we have to do is move A11 over to the proper pin, and bring a GND signal to the 2732's !CE pin (as the chip should always be enabled). Just as before, we'll use strip headers for the "straight through" connections, cutting off any lines we don't need, and bending any lines we'd like to reroute away from the chip before rerouting them. 6.1) Start by putting a couple of 12-pin strip headers into one of the 24-pin sockets. Cut pin 18 about halfway up, and cut pin 21 near its base. After you're done your cutting, you should have something like this: LEGEND: ------- # = body of 24-pin socket ! = pins from 24-pin socket = = breadboard material * = the plastic that surrounds the row of pins in the strip header | = uncut pins from the strip header x = the stub of the cut pin | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | x | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | PIN 13 | | | | | | | | x | | | < top of strip header * * * * * * * * * * * * < plastic surrounding pins | | | | | | | | | | | | < bottom of strip header ####################### < 24-pin socket body ####################### < 24-pin socket body ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! < pins from 24-pin socket 6.2) As in step 5.5), use your soldering iron to tin the leads of the tops of the strip header pins and the pins of a 24-pin socket. This will make step 6.3) infinitely easier to perform, and make the final product considerably more reliable. 6.3) Again, just as in step 5.6), place the 24-pin socket on *top* of the strip header pins and solder all connecting pins in place. When you are done, you should have something that looks like this: LEGEND: ------- # = body of 24-pin socket ! = pins from 24-pin socket = = breadboard material * = the plastic that surrounds the row of pins in the strip header | = uncut pins from the strip header x = the stub of the cut pin ####################### < 24-pin socket body ####################### < 24-pin socket body ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! < pins from 24-pin socket | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | x | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | PIN 13 | | | | | | | | x | | | < top of strip header * * * * * * * * * * * * < plastic surrounding pins | | | | | | | | | | | | < bottom of strip header ####################### < 24-pin socket body ####################### < 24-pin socket body ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! < pins from 24-pin socket 6.4) This is the tricky bit. You want to connect pin 18 of the *bottom* socket to pin 21 of the *top* socket. You also want to connect pin 14 of the adaptor to pin 18 of the top socket. This step involves some very tricky and delicate placement of wires, fingers, and a soldering iron. It can be by one person without burned fingers, but a third set of hands will probably make things go a little easier. Just be careful and it'll all work out. (And come to think of it, it was harder to come up with these ASCII pictures than it was to do the wiring :-) What you will end up is something like this, when viewed from the side: ####################### < 24-pin socket body ####################### < 24-pin socket body ~! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! < pins from 24-pin socket |~|-|-|-|-' | | | | | | | | | | | ----' | | | | | | | | /| | | | | | | | | | x | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | PIN 13 | | | | | | | | x | | | < top of strip header * * * * * * * * * * * * < plastic surrounding pins | | | | | | | | | | | | < bottom of strip header ####################### < 24-pin socket body ####################### < 24-pin socket body ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! < pins from 24-pin socket Finally, just to exhaust the limitations of ASCII art, here's an oblique X-ray view, with the body of the top socket cut away and the body of the bottom socket eliminated. Connect "A" (on pin 14 == GND) to "A" (pin 18 on the top socket), and connect "B" (pin 18 on the bottom socket) to "B" (pin 21 on the top socket). # # # # # # # # # # # # < pin 1 on top socket A /||||||||||||||||||||||| / ||| / / / / / / / / ||| < ||| / /|||/ / / / / / / / /||| < ||| = top socket material / / ||| / / / / / / / / ||| < ||| / / /|||/ / / / / / / / ||| * * * ||| * * * * * * * ||| < pin 1 on bottom socket / / / /|||/ / / / / / / ||| ||| ||| ||||||||||||||||||||||| # # # # # # # # # # # # < pin 24 on top socket / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / A / / B / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / B / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / * * * * * * * * * * * * < pin 24 on bottom socket / / / / / / / / / / / / You now have an adaptor which you can plug into any 2532 socket and use a 2732 chip. If you're feeling masochistic, you can whip up a few more of these; you never know when one will come in handy. Tech Note: No, you can't use these to program 2532s in a burner configured for 2732s, but you can use it to read 'em, which is good enough for most purposes.